"The old city of Sana'a possesses a uniqueness in Yemen and in the world which can only be compared to the special quality of Venice; that is, its value lies not so much in the merit of the individual buildings, important though they may be, as in the unforgettable impression made by the whole - an entire city of splendid buildings combining to create an urban effect of extraordinary fascination and beauty.
But the old city is even more than that, for it is amazingly untouched by change: mosques, baths, suqs, caravanserais, houses, market gardens, all as they used to be hundreds of years ago; a living functioning city out of the Islamic Middle Ages, the people a pageant in themselves with their varied, colourful clothes and traditional manners. it is the coherence and harmony of this ensemble, more than the buildings taken by themselves, that give Sana'a its exceptional quality."
"THE OLD WALLED CITY OF SANAA" Ronald Lewcock - UNESCO
FRANKINCENSE & ARABIAN NIGHTS
This year why not join Helen, our resident Middle East enthusiast, on a once in a lifetime journey to Yemen. Once christened Arabia Felix, or "Happy Arabia" by early explorers, Yemen offers you, the traveller of today, a plethora of rewarding experiences as our journey takes us through the highlands, desert and coastal plains of this scenically rich country. Wander the labyrinthine streets of Sana’a, one of the world’s oldest living cities and marvel at the unique 300 year old tower houses that are ornamented with elaborate friezes and plasterwork. The markets in the narrow streets selling such wares as frankincense, myrrh, spices and clothing reveal a lifestyle unchanged in centuries and you will be delighted by the magical sights and sounds at every turn.
We will travel to the beautifully rugged Haraz Mountains where we will explore the fortified mountain villages with their towering houses built entirely of stone, decorated
geometrical facades. There will be an option to trek in this region and wander through the cultivated terraces and open ourselves to the traditional hospitality and friendliness of the Yemeni people whilst sipping tea or participating in the afternoon qat chews …if you dare!
The journey would certainly not be complete without a visit to the outstanding skyscraper city of Shibam, located in the Wadi Hadhramaut, which was once the centre of the ancient incense route. Here we will observe the traditional use of mud and straw bricks that clearly demonstrate the diversity of Yemen’s architecture.
There will be further exploration of this area in the form of a desert crossing, not by camel like in old times, but in our comfortable landcruiser. This will give us an opportunity to spend the night in the desert and to visit the Bedouin communities en route.
Yemen is a hidden gem waiting to be rediscovered.
You too can experience the mystique of one of the most untouched and traditional Arab countries by joining Helen on one of our tours. It will certainly leave you with a taste of Yemen and most definitely a passion for more!
AROMATIC ARABIA
A Journey through the Yemen
Saturday 20 November, 2010:
Arrive Sana'a. We will be met upon arrival at the airport and transferred to our hotel, a traditional tower house, located within the walls of the Old City. Sana’a, the City of Divine and Earthly Joy! Nothing can quite prepare you for your first glimpse of the magnificent old city. It is simply breathtaking! After check in our guide will take us on a walk through the old city which has one of the largest completely preserved medinas remaining in the Arab world with over 14,000 unique stone tower houses, each individually decorated with elaborate plaster ornamentation. Such a feature of Sana'a! The crenellations and whitewashed designs outline the ornate windows, many of them made of thin sheets of alabaster or coloured glass. Eventually we reach Souq Al Milh, Sana’a vibrant and stimulating market. It is a scene of intense activity and riotous bargaining. Immediately upon entering the souq, our senses will be assailed by the wonderful sights, sounds and aromas of Arabia. Old Sana’a’s twisting alleys and bustling markets are straight out of the Arabian Nights, a collection of separate souqs each with its own specialty. Days could be spend in the Old City exploring this souq, mingling with the friendly Yemeni people and witnessing a way of life that has remained untouched for centuries. Overnight in Sana’a.
Sunday 21 November, 2010:
Sana’a. This morning we continue our exploration of the Old City, including the National and Folklore Museums. After lunch we drive out of the city to Wadi Dhahr to visit "Dar al Hajjar", Imam Yahya’s famous five storey summer palace. Built in 1786 on a towering granite spur, the palace was constructed from stone blocks decorated with white gypsum designs. It is the most photographed of all Yemen's architectural treasures, and has become a national icon. Late afternoon return to Sana’a for dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight in Sana’a.
Monday 22 November, 2010:
Depart Sana’a and head south east through tremendous mountain scenery and green volcanic landscapes to Rada’a, a town famous for its mudbrick architecture. Here we can see the impressively restored 16th century Al Amiriya Mosque. Continue on to the village of Al Misgah, in the Wadi Bana region. A very picturesque, fertile area of qat and coffee terraces. Superb walking country! Overnight in a local guest house (if available and would be multi share as there are only two rooms), otherwise camping.
Tuesday 23 November, 2010:
Al Misgah. Morning walk around the village with local guide for a glimpse of rural life. Drive on to Ta’iz via the Naqil Sumarah Pass (2800m), one of the finest views in all Yemen. Look out over stunning terraced fields, scattered farms and villages, valleys and wadis. We reach Ta’iz in the mid afternoon. It is a delightful, bustling city with a Turkish flavour. Short drive to Jebel Sabir for sunset views. Overnight in Ta’iz.
Wednesday 24 November, 2010:
Ta’iz. Morning sightseeing in the city then we leave our city retreat and venture to the coastal Tihama region where there will be a distinct change in temperature and scenery. Eventually we reach Zabid, one of the oldest towns in Yemen, and now included in UNESCO’s world heritage list. The architecture of Zabid is unique as the houses are one or two storeys only, organised around a courtyard, the white washed facades are decorated by the skillfully placed bricks, with incredibly ornate interiors. Sightseeing with local guide. Either overnight in simple guest house or drive to Al Faza for camping.
Thursday 25 November, 2010:
Al Faza. After breakfast we drive north east to the Khusma region where we will see some of the most outstanding scenery in Yemen. Houses clinging to the sides of cliffs and row upon row of spectacular terracing. Onward to the coastal city of Al Hodeidah, Yemen’s second largest port city after Aden. The city you see today took shape in the 1960s, when the modern port was built using Soviet aid. Overnight in Al Hodeidah.
Friday 26 November, 2010:
Al Hodeidah. Morning visit to Souq Az Zamek, one of the world’s largest and most entertaining fish markets. Drive to the Haraz Mountains, known as the “Rooftop of Arabia", and the magnificent 12th century village of Al Hajjarah. This is a stunningly beautiful region famous for its rugged peaks, narrow green valleys, coffee plantations and stone architecture. In the evening we have a traditional Yemeni meal in the mafraj of our guest house, where the men from the host family will entertain us with traditional music and dancing. Overnight in Al Hajjarah.
Saturday 27 November, 2010:
Al Hajjarah. After breakfast we have an optional half day trek with a local guide. Overnight in Al Hajjarah.
Sunday 28 November, 2010:
Al Hajjarah. Drive to Sana’a and guest house.
Monday 29 November, 2010:
Sana’a. Day at leisure.
Tuesday 30 November, 2010:
Sana’a. Fly to Seiyun where we are met and transferred to our hotel next to the old city in Shibam. Known as the "Manhattan of the East", Shibam is a celebrated Arabian city, a tight cluster of 500 tower houses built in the traditional style typical of the settlements of the desert and southern Arabia from the 5th Century BC. Afternoon walk through the old city with local guide. Overnight in Shibam.
Wednesday 01 December, 2010:
This morning we explore Seiyun, the former capital of the Kathiri Sultanate, visiting the Sultan Al Kathiri Palace, another wonderful structure built of mudbricks and decorated with gypsum. Today it is a fascinating museum housing an extensive collection of cultural and colonial artifacts, and currently showing a fabulous collection of photographs of this area, taken in the 1930s by famous British explorer, Freya Stark. Continue on to Tarim, an important religious centre noted for its several hundred mosques and unique style of mudbrick architecture. Overnight in Seiyun.
Thursday 02 December, 2010:
After breakfast we set off on an extraordinary journey of approximately 160km through the Wadi Do’an, an area once famous for being part of the ancient incense route. This is a spectacular drive through groves of date palms and numerous mudbrick villages, all nestling at the foot of dramatic vertical walls of rock. Note the houses’ ornate windows and colourful facades, some with bright and large motives of flowers, animals and abstract drawings. En route we will pass through the villages of Al Garain, Rihab, Sif, Al Khoreiba and most importantly, Al Hajjarain, a beautiful mountaintop village. We have time to explore the village and hopefully sample some of the world famous honey that comes from this region and regarded by locals as a strong aphrodisiac! Overnight in the village of Al Khailah.
Friday 03 December, 2010:
Al Khailah. This morning we drive out of the wadi and continue over a vast expanse of volcanic wasteland, known as the Jol, to the coast and Al Mukalla, the capital of the governorate of Hadramawt. It was a simple fishing village in 1035 AD, but today Al Mukalla has grown into a prosperous seaport with a manifestly oriental air. Before dinner our guide will take us on a short walking tour of the atmospheric old town. Overnight in Al Mukalla.
Saturday 04 December, 2010:
Fly to Sana’a. We will be met upon arrival and transferred to the hotel. Overnight in Sana’a. (note there is a 7 day optional extension after this trip to the island of Socotra).
Sunday 05 December, 2010:
Sana’a. Day at leisure.
Monday 06 December, 2010:
Sana’a. Transfer to the international airport. Tour ends.
Cost: A$4595 per person twin share + A$495 for the single supplement. Includes all accommodation, all meals, all sightseeing with English speaking guide, entrance fees, all transportation, internal flights, and all arrival/departure airport transfers. Note international airfare is not included in the above cost.
Tour Grading: Travelling in Yemen should be considered as an adventure holiday so you must be prepared to rough it now and again. Some of the facilities you encounter in this third world country may not be to the standard which you would find on a more conventional holiday or at home, e.g. squat toilets, no air conditioning in the cars and the odd cold shower. We use accommodation in a variety of different styles from 3 star hotels with private facilities to local guest houses (funduqs), offering clean, but basic rooms with Yemeni style mattresses on the floor and shared bathrooms. We travel through areas which relatively speaking has seen few tourists and the infrastructure is not fully developed. There is a bit of walking involved you would need a reasonable level of fitness. So if you have an open mind, positive attitude and a keen desire to experience a very unique and special culture, then Yemen is for you!
